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(maem' l s sheets-sheen 1. C. WUTERICH & GqV. SHEPFIELD. SEWING MACHINE. NQ7V276,653. Patented May 1,1883. Eiyv a' -4 J'BJ I T- ,l

if? l 5*5 LL.: 51'? 1,2', 'E

IIIIII WITNESSES (Mbael.)

C. WUTBRIG'H & G

SE WING MACHINE.

Pgatented `Malyl, 1883.

WITNESSES N, Pneus mwmumgmprwr, wnsmngm. D. c-

(Model.) s sheets-sheen s.

` C. W'UTERIGH 8u G. V. SHEFFIEL'D.

` n SBWINGMAGHINE. l

, No. 276,653. vhmmm Maly 1,1883.

c. ,of C

am@ Ih UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHRISTIAN VUTERICH AND GEORGE V. SHEFFIELD, 0F NEV YRK, N. Y., ASSIGNORS T0 SHEFFIELD St WUTERICH SEWING MACHINE UGMPANY,

0F SAME PLACE.

SPECIFICATION forming part ot Letters Patent N o. 276,653, dated May 1, 188?.

` Application iled-February 11,1881. (Model.)

To all ywhom 'it may concer-n:

Be it known that we, CHRISTIAN Wn'rEaIoH "and GEORGE V. SHEEFIELD, ot' the city, county, and State of New York, have invented ceri: tainl new and useful Improvements in Sewing-` Machines for Sewing or Fastening Heavy Leather-Vllork, such as slice-soles, belting harness, trunk-work, Ste.; and we hereby declare the following to be a full and cear description Io thereof, which will enable others skilled inthe art to make and use our improved machine.

The object of this invention is to produce a machineforsewin g both the insole and outsole lof 'a shoe with the same machine, using either `i5 two or three waxed threads, and forming theV sliwn in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is adetailed sectional `elevation of the clutch-lever that moves the ltlflding-jaws above mentioned, so as to feed `the work from one stitch to the next. Fig. 4

' 35 is a transverse sectional elevation of the machine, showing a rockshaft that operates the stitch-lifter, hereinafter described, and the operating-lever and other mechanism that moves the said lifter, as required. Fig. 5 is a sec- 4o tional side elevation of the same parts which are shown in Fig. 4, the driving-shaft and upper portion ot' the supporting-frame being shown in this figure nearly in their entirety, but other mechanism than that under illustration being omitted from the figure for the purpose of perspicuity. l"ig.`6 is a detailed end elevation of the lifter-hook and the end of its operating-shaft. Fig. 7 is a transverse sectional elevation of the machine, showing the Fig. 2 is a side ele- 3o vation, showing the same parts which are mechanism that operates the horizontally 5o moving needle F, which performs an important function iu the formation of the stitch or loop formed by this machine. Fig. 8 is a sectional elevation of the machine, showing the parts illustratedin Fig. 7, and 'in this ligure, 55 like Figs. 2 and 6, parts of the machine not under illustration are omitted. 'Fig. 9 is adetailed and enlarged elevation of the horizontally-moving needle pertaining to the mechanism shown in Figs. 7 and S. Fig. 1t), Sheet 6o 2, is arear end elevation of the machine, showing the mechanism for driving thc machine, and also for working the rota-ting or rocking shafts that carr5r the curved needle-head and stitchguide, hereinafter described. sectional side elevation of the full frame of the machine, showing clearlyT the parts illustrated in Fig. 10, and also the fnlllengths of the driving-shaft, the rockshaft that operates the tension arm or lifter, and the rock-shafts that op- 7o erate the rocking needle-head to which the curved needle is affixed, and also the curved stitchguide, one of the last-named shafts being hollow and the other one inclosed within it. Fig. 13 is a frontend elevation of the machine, 75

showing all the operative parts on that end of the machine except the feeding-jaws, which have been removed in this ligure for the purpose of showing the other parts more" clearly. Fig. letis a detailed sectional eleva-tion ofthe 8o cam-movement that operates the tension-arm. Fig. 15 is a detailed sectional elevation of the cam-movement that rocks the curved .needlehead. Fig. 16 is a sectional plan of a part of the` machine, showing the vertical rockin g post, 85 with its two radial arms, and the actuating' cam that operates the tension-arm in its reciprocating movement, and also the projecting arm that forms the guide and stay for the ratchet-lever of the feeding device. Fig. 17 is 9o a sectional elevationofthe curved needle, showing its barb for catching the thread. Fig. 18 is adetail view,showingthe relation of thecircnlar. needle and the stitch guide or catcher D. Fig.

19 is a sectional elevation of the curved needle- 9 5 head with its attachments. Fig. 2li is a side elevation of the outer end of the tension-arm. Fig. 21 is a front end elevation ofthe oscillat- Figiiis c,

s avesse ing threading-arm attached to the side of the tension-arm. Fig. 22 is a perspective view of the. thread-measuring arm, which is used iu combination with the tension-arm. Fig. 23 shows a stitch in which only two of the threads are utilized. Fig. 24 is a top plan of the stop and guide piece which is fixed to and projects from the supporting-frame for the stopping and guiding of the thread-measuring arm.

All of the operative parts of the machine are built upon a suitable frame, A, portions of which, or attachments thereto, furnish the proper bearings for all axles or other bearings.

The fundamental parts of the machine consist of the jaws B, which hold the work while' it is being sewed, the rocking need1e-l1ead C, with its curved needle G, and also the rocking guide-head D, with its loop-catcher and curved stitch-guide D', the lifter-hook E, and the horizontally-moving needle F, together with the tension-arm G, while the operating devices may be made Lin any shape or form equivalent to that described.

Thejaws B have two movements-viz., first,` to close upon the work which is placed between them like a vise; and, second, a forward-and-backward movement of about oneeighth of an inch, (more or less,) so as to carry the Work forward from stitch to stitch. These holding and feedingjaws are operated by two operating arms or levers, B and B2, the lower ends of which terminate in the said jaws or holders, just above which the two arms or levers are halved orjointed together like a pair of tongs or shears, and in lieu of a pivot-pin for uniting the two saidarms anthe point of their i-ntersection they are attached to a collar or sleeve, B3, which slides upon the hollow clearly shown in Fig. 1.

needle-shaft C2. Either one or both ofthe said jawlevers may open and close shear like;

vagainsttheir respective supports or guides H and H. The rest or guide H is a cam, as is The re-entering notch or formation b3 '-b* b5, constructed either with rectilinear or curved lines, is just sufficient toallow the jaws B to open enough to permitthe.

work to stand free of the said jaws,-(while the work is held on the curved needle, hereinafter described,) and thereby permit the said jaws to move back, as will presently be described,V

so as to take a new hold ou the material being sewed, preparatory to movingitforward the proper distance to form the nextfstitch. Ex#

cept for the notch biflb, the cam H would be a circular .disk concentric with the shaft I, to

. which it is fixed, and the roller orlsheave b',

of the periphery of the cam H, and during the rotation of this portion of said cam it, by pressing against the roller or sheave b', will hold thejaw attached to the arm Bl tightly up to the otherjaw or upon the material placed between them; but when the sheave or roller b drops into thenotch or cam opening b3 b4 b5 the said jaw will open, as above mentioned, so

as to allow the two jaws to drop back and take a fresh hold upon the worlr, preparatory to the forward feed movement required.

In order to adjust thc distance between the jaws B when they are closed to fit tightly upon different thicknesses of material, the attachment of the sheave or roller b to the lever or arm B is made adjustable by means of the thumb-screw b, which 'moves the sliding block be, on which is placed the bearing of the sheave or roller b. A slot or seat in the arm or lever B receives the sliding block bf, so that it may easily slide therein, and the thumb-screwb is also seated in the arm B', which forms its fulf crum, all of which construction is clearly shownl in Fig. l. By turning the thumb-screw b in or out, as may be desired, the roller or sheave b may be adjusted accordingly, and' in conn formitjT therewith the distance between the jaws B when closed regulated as desired.

The means for holding the' arm orle'ver B2 in its proper place or position may be, a stationary seat-for pressing against the sheave or roller b2; or it may be, as shown, a disk, H',

fixed coneentrically to the driving-shaftl and revolving therewith, as does the cam H. This arrangement will reduce the frictional obstruction necessaryintheforwardand backward slidingof thejaws required for the feed movement. 1n order to adjust the machine byhand, so as to open or close thejaws B at pleasure when putting work into or taking itfrom the machine, the

IOO

cam H is attached to the shaft I, so as to rotate with it by means of a ratchet-wheel, h, fixed to the said shaft I, but allowing the cam H to turn freely on the said shaft, except when engaged by the pawl h', which is fulcrume'd or pivoted to the side of H, as shown in Fig.1. This arrangement permits the operator to turn the cam back, so that the sheave b will drop into the cam-recess b'J b4 b5, thus allowing the said jaws B to be opened temporarily by the operator whenever required.

The opening and closing of the jaws B upon the work being operated as above fully described, we will next describe the feeding movement, which consists of a short reciprocating movement of the said jaws B to and from the front end of the machine. This movement of the jaws B- must be made in one full reciprocating `movement forward and backward at each rotation of the driving-shaft I, and the following-described mechanism is used to produce this result: Acam-wheeL'H?,

IIO

lever BL is fulcrumed at 1F to some suitable stationary part of the machine, and the upper end of it terminates in a Aroller or sheave, b, which tits easily within the cam-groove h2. The other end of the said lever B4 is bifurcated and grasps and embraces the swivelcluteh b9, so as to let the said clutch-band or swivel-piece rotate or rock easily within it, but not to move laterally out of it, as clutchpinssecurcd in the two parts-ot' the bifurcation of lever B4 enteran annular groove in the periphery of the clutch-piece b9, as indicated inFigs. 2 and 3. The elutchb9 is fixed to the inner end ot' the sliding collar B3, which is placed concentrically around the needle-shaft G2, and carries on its front end the hinged or jointed connection of the twojaw-arms Band B2. The curved groove h2 in the face of the wheel H3, the lever B4, the clutch b9, the slidingcollnar B3, and thejaw-arms B and B2 are so constructed and combined thatat each revolution of the shaft I and its attached wheel H3 the lever B4, actuated bythe cam-wheel H3, will `move the sliding collar B3 and its attached arms B and B' forward and backward once just the required distance to move the work from one stitch to the next, and the forward and retrograde movement of the said jawsB for this purpose is so `timed with `the .4 opening and closing the said jlws upon the Vwork, as above describedby reason of` both operations being workedby aibitrary movements from the same driving-shaft,1, that `the retrograde movement ot' the said jaws B will f be performed during the time the said `jaws are opened or freed from their hold upon the work, as described, and the forward movement of the said jaws will be made during the time `the saidjaws are closed upon the work, there- `by carryingthe work along with them lthe distangle required from onestitch to the next.

`The-formation ofthe cam H3,witl1 its groove JL2 issneh that the rearward movement of the A-jawsk-B is performed in the one-eighth of a .revolutfidn of the shaft I, or thereabout, :asi above described, for the opening ofthe `sa id jaws-hy reason of the construction of the ioperatipgcam H, as already mentioned, and during the remaining seven-eighths ot' a revolution of the shaft I, or nearlyinthat time, theforward movement of the said jaws isaccom-` plished, and then the jaws Band their held work remain stationary a sufficient length of time for the needles to pass through `the work, carrying with them thethreads,and then drawing in the 'threads tightly by reason of` the action ofthe tension-arm, so as to form one perfect and completed stitch at each revolution j of the machine. The method of adjusting the length of the stitch isby moving thefulcrum .j

or pivot b"I of the actuating-lever Bf up or down by means of one or more adjustingscrews b1", the a erture through the said lever to permit the fulcrumpin thereof the required- 'vertical movementfor this adjustment. When this fulcrum pin or pivot is moved up it is obvious the lower arm of the said lever will be lengthened, and the lateral movement of the said pivot-pinis moved down the lower arm of the lever will be shortened, and the lateral movement of the jaws B will then be theleast, and in this manner the operator can easilyr and quickly set the machine to sew a long or a short stitch.

The sewing or stitching made by this machine is the joint work of tive distinct devices, which perform separate and specific operations in the formation ot' the loop-stitchwhich is the product lof the machine. These separate devices are the loop-lifter E, the curved needle several devices willpnow be described in the order named, and then will follow a combined descriptionof theirunited functions and operations.

(shown clearly in Figs. 5 and 6,) and it is xed to the overhauging end-of the shaft Ea't the front end ot' themachine. `The shaft E and its attached hooked lifter E have a rocking mot-udinal slidingI movement in the `direction of the axis of the shaft. The rock-shaft Ehas its Vhearings in the frame A, so as to allowthe 'said shaft to rotate or rock easily therein; but

shoulder or collar, and it will consequently sired. At some convenient point on this shaft a circumferential groove,V e', eut thereon; or, in lieu thereof,jth ere isa concentric collar txed to the shaft.

1e,\je,rs,.1*l2 and E3, which are respectively ful-y k3cr-tuned by suitable pins, e2 and e3, to somle part ot' the frame A or its attachments. Thesel ing-shaft l. This cam-wheel carries, project- `ing from one of its sides, a pin or stud, le, Fig.

arelixed two concentric projecting cam-plates, Ic and k2, (shown respectively in Figs. 4 and 5 and 7 and'S,) the plate k being used to aetuate the lever E3. The lower end of the lever E2 -cogged wheel e and actuates it, so as to rock the shaftE, to which itis tixed,in thedesired manner. d

A tension-spring, c5,

is xed byonaofits have freedom to move longitudinally, as de-A being slotted, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, so as jaws B will then be the greatest, and when the C', the stitch-guide D', the horizontally-mow ing needle F,andthe,tension-arm G; andtheseY The loop-lifter Eis a small curved hook, l

tionahout the axis of the shaft and ahlougil it is not conned in the said bearings by any j there is tixed to it a cog'ged wiheel, e, and atV another convenient point in said shaft there is In connection with-` the wheel c and the j groove or collar e are respectively placed two versE2 and E3 are actuated bythe cam-wheel'; K, which-is h'xed to androtated with the lriv-M .4, which strikes andoperatesthe lever E2,and on the opposite side ofthe said ram-wheel Kk terminates in a cogged sector, et, asshow'n best.. in Fig. 4, and this cogged sector gears luto the front of the machine by the spring e7, which is ends to some stationary part of .the A.machine or the frame A, and the other end ofthe said spring is attached to or placed in contact with the lever E2, so as to throw it habitually to one side to the limit of its movement, thereby rotating the cogged wheel e, and with it the'rock shaft-E', to one side; but the springeihas sut'- ticient elasticity to allow the lever E2 to move to the opposite 'limit of its movement, as it will do at every revolution of the driving-shaft I by reason of the pin or stud k striking the upper end of the said lever E2-and forcing it to one side, asindicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 4. A small projection, e, on the side of the lever E2, next the pin lr, forms a seat for the said pin to strike against, as shown in Fig. 4, and the exit end of this seat terminates abruptly, as is also shown in Fig. 4, so as to allow the lever to drop back suddenly by means of the action of the spring e5. The length of the 1seat e, as will be seen inA the drawings, is q'uiteshort,andthecompleteforward-and-backward movement of the lever E2 is made between the moment the pin 7c first strikes the seat e6 and the time the lever first drops back to its normal position after leaving the said seat e6. This construction gives to the lever E2 a short jerking movement backward and forward once at each revolution ofthe camwheel K, andproduces the consequent rocking backward and forward of the shaft E at the same time, thereby giving to the hook or lifter E first an upward movement and then a downward movement at each revolution of the machine, and then the hook will remain lowered at the same time the spring' e5 holds the lever stationary, which will be during scven-eighths (more or less) ofthe time occupied in one revolution of the shaft I.

The lever E3 moves the shaft E longitudinally in its seat, and for this purpose the lower end of the said leveris forked and made to enter the annular groove e', or attached to the collar, which may be used in lieu of the said groove, so as lo allow the shaft E to rotate at the same time it is held and governed by the lever E3 as to its longitudinal movement. shaft E is held habitually drawn in from the adjustably attached to the rear end of the said shaft by the screw e2, the spring being attached to the shaft so as not to interfere with its rotation or its forward movement, but of sufficient force to draw the shaft back endwise to the limit of its movement as soon as its forward movement shall have been completed.

The cam-plate 7c', which operates the lever E3, as is clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 5is a short curved plate fixed to thc side of the eamwheel K, the curvature of the said plate being concentric with the wheel K. This curved plate extends aboutone-eighth (more or less) of the distance round the said wheel K, and irnpartsmovement to the actuated lever E3 only during about one-eighth of the time (more or less) ofthe revolution of the cam-wheel K and The' Iits driving-shaftl.y They cam-plate k', which actuat'es this lever, is made with its frontend gradually sloping, so as to allow the end ot the lever E3 which bears against it to rise up easily on it as `the wheel K rotates, and the rear end 'of the said plate is made to terminate abruptly, so as to allow the lever to drop suddenly off the said cam-plate, thereby allowing the spring e2 tov draw the shaft rearward almost instantly'assoonV as thelever leaves the working-face of the said cam-plate.

The combined mechanism above described foroperatingtheroclcshaftE is so constructed and arrangedthat the said shaft E and its hook E will first movevforward toward the front end of the machine about one inch, more or less. Then the shaft will rotate and the free end of the hook lift up, so as to grasp the thread in the act of forming the stitch, as hereinaftereXpIained, Thentheshaftwillbedrawn b :ck by the action of the spring e7 to its normallongitudinal position, carrying the loop ot' thread withit, and then the hook will suddenlydrop,in the mannerhereinafterexplained, in which latter position-i. e., down and backthe hook or lifter will remain during about seveneighths (more or less) of the revolution of the machine, and then the above-described movements of the hook or lifter will 'be again performed. When the hook is drawn back and dropped down it will drop the looped thread forming the stitch free to the control of other parts of the machine, and this completed movement of the hook E will be performed once at the formation of each and every stitch sewed on the machine. l

The needle F is moved forward and backward in a reciprocating movement by means of its operating shaft or bar F', to the cndof which it may be directly attached or connected therewith by means ofthe connecting-barf. The needle F is driven forward by means of its actuating-lever F2, and is drawn back by means of the retaining-springf, which holds' the bar and its attached needle habitually drawn in, back from thefrontendofthemaehine,asshown in Fig. 8. The actuating-lever F2 is pvoted at f2 to some suitable part of the frame. A, so as `to allow the said lever to move the bar F forward 'as required,the lower end of the said lever'being forked and made to engage -in the groove f3 in the said baror shaft, or otherwise attached thereto, so. as to readily move it forward as desired. The upper end of the said lever F2 is engaged with and moved by the curved camplate k2, which is fixed to the cam-wheel K,

substantially ashereinbefore described, thel whole being operated by the driving-shaft I, so 'as' to combine the movements of the needle ICO Igs

F with" the otherv parts of the machine, in order that the movements of the 4said'horizontallymoving needle shall be arbitrary and auto-` machine; 'v l 'The horizontallylmo'ving needle F is con'- cylindrical orattened .,bar, sharpened at the end andtpiercedtvithja transverseihole oreye," l j", (shown by dotijedrA linesin said-Fig.` 9,) l thef said hole or eye being near the endofthe said y needle: Close, behind the saidveye there `isa ntch,f5, formedjransversely in one sideiof the needle Aand perpendicular "to `theaxis et* kAtsmall`iiator"ronnd spring, f6,

\ one or two inches (more or less) back from the @with gentlepressnre` against the side ot' thef y `tached to the frame A, and

" .cular path.

point "thereof, and 1:the saiduspring lies along` by the side ofjand parallel `with the said nee` dle F, but a short distance therefromsay one-` sixteenth of an inch, more or lessnntil just,

at the point of" the spring it touches just in* fr otof the eyef, the springbeing stil'enough said needle. i n

The driving-,shalt I, from Whiehall the op` erative parts ot' this `machineare driven, has its bearings in suitable pillow-blocks, A', alt `this drivin geshaft is driven `bya band-wheel placed directly upon; it, or by a cogged wheel, I,andaspur`wheel,

12, gearing into the said wheel I 4and mounted on acounter-shatft, 13, Figs; l() and 11.4 There Aisbn one of` these axles orshafts any-wheel (not shown) to assist in regulatingthe movement ot the machine.` Thedriving-shaft I may be 'driven by power or by aitreadleor other inea-ns, as occasion or circumstances may re- "y In addition to the `wheels or cams H, H', H?, and K, already described as being upon the shaft I, and the cogged wheel I', which may be used as a dri\fi`ng{wl1eel, and which also` acts i as a crank-Wheel to a vibrating arm, hereina i ter described, there are placed upon the said shaft and actuated by it twolother cams, L and M. `(Shown in Figs. 11,14, and 15, and herei-nafterdescribedmore fully.) i 4 The sewing done by this machine isiprincipally formed .bythe curved needle Uf, which is already shown in Figs". 1l, 18,17, and 19. This needle is` fixed to the head 0which `is mount` ed on the shaft02, and, ,with it, rocks in a cir-` The rocking needleG is curved so as to be annularin outline, formsabout seven-eighths of a complete circle,iand is secured centrally to the rockin g-head C byi means 'ot' the small segmental clamping-plate c, which leaves its ends c and o2 freeto perforate or pass through the material being served. The segmental platee isattached by small screws c3, which are withdrawn or" loosened when a needle is t0 be removed and tightened 'when a` H needle is to be i'astenedinto the machine. The

end `c" ofthe said curved needleis sharpened,

as shown in Fig. 13, and, during the first move` ment or backward rock ot'ithe needle-head, acts as an awl topierce the material being served. The end c2'is sharpened to a point, andhas the in Fig.'17.u

ineedle C while `passing alternately intoland through "thefmaterial"being served, they `are made to pass throughH two adj ustahle", guides, 305` and""c6g These iguides are simpl yf two""`arms attached to and extending `radially froinf the hub-band C? on the extreme- `outer end of the needleshaft G2." This hub-bandant) itswprojecting arms c? ande6 arerotated with the said shaft' C? at each one of' `its semi-rotations forward and backward until one of theradiating arnisstrikes' `one ot" the projecting jawsV B, fwhenit will stop andallow the needle-head `(l 4tocontinue its rotarymovement totheend of ;its stroke, thereby pressing the curved needle on'through its guide c5 or c, as the case may Ibe,`and allowing'the needle to be supported and braced by the saidgnideas reqnired', so .as to obviate the liability of breaking the necl-dle. :During theftinie the'guides c5 ande6 are ,stationary and guiding'the needleends, as ,abovedescribeth and the needlehead is ynuoviing, theshaft C2` rotates Within the hub-bandi G3,which at other `times rotates'ivith thes'aid ;shaft C2," the t'rictional contactbetween the jsaid shat't and thesaid hub-band being "suflicientto turn the said hub-band when itis left free-to turn,'but is not `too much to prevent the.shaft from rotating Within the said hubbandwhen thebandis stopped by contact ot' one ofthe guides c5 or 'c6 against thejaw B, as `above explained; The needle-head G is seg` mental in t'orm, as clearly shown in Fig. 13,

`and the segmental length of it isabutnfty y t degrees (moreor less) as is also shown in said lFig. 13, While thearms or guides c5 ando6 be-` `iiigradially opposite each other the circum- `t'erential distance4 between the said arms" isI `nearly one hundred and eighty degrees,thus

overlap it at-cachend, carrying on its frontend the before-men tioned needle-head C, and at its rear enda cogged pinion-Wheel, C4, which IZO nieshes with thercogged sector N, formed on v t the lower-.end ot' the vibratin'glever N, the said Jever being pivoted to the rear end ofthe machine bythe pivot-pin nu` i f t `A crank-pimi'i, fixed in or to the side ofthe ,wheel I", enters andtravels in the sloth. ,formed )inthe upperend ot the lever 1 as shown in Fig. 10, and as thelsaid crank-pin rotates around :its centralshaft, I, traveling in the said slot a', it will vibrate' the lever or vibrating .arm "N `forward and; backward` as desired, so as to lcause its sector N` to actuate the cogg'edwheel G4, and with it the attached shaft C2, and backward'in a rocking movement about a half a'revolution (more or less) of the said shaft C2 for the proper operation of the drivinghead forA the needle C', as hereinbefore explained. a

The small shaft' D2, Fig. 19, which is placed within the shaft C2 and hasits bearings therein, also has a rocking movement, but at a different time than is occupied for the movement of the shaft C2. A crank lever or arm, D3, lis fixed to the rear end of the said shaft D2, which projects beyond the end of the shaft C2 on thatl end far enough to allow for the attachment of the said lever or arm D3. A connecting-rod, D4, (shown in Figs. 1() and 11,) connects the lower end of the arm D3 with the lower end of its actuating-leverDf, the latterlever being fulcrumed to the frame A by its pivot-pin d, and actuated or moved forward by the cam L, on the driving-shaft I, comingin contact with the said lever, or with the pin d' ,projecting therefrom, and then the spring d2 draws the lever D5 back to its normal position as soon as the pin d' has been released from the vprojecting part Z of the said cam L. The projecting part Z of the said cam L, which moves the lever D5 forward, occupies about one-eighth (more or less) of the'circumference of the cam L, as clearly shown in Fig. 15, and the depressed or smaller diametered part, Z', of the said cam L consequently forms aboutseven-eighths (more or less) of the circumference of the said camface, andas the spring d2 draws the lever D5 back with a smart jerk as soon as it leaves the projected face l it is evident that the movement communicated to the shaft D2 through the intermediate connections, D4 and D3 is. a short jerky rocking movement of about oneeighth ofarevolution (more or less) of the shaft D2 at each revolution of the driving-shaft I, which movemcntis comm unicated to thecurved stitch-guide D', which is attached to the front end ofthe inclosed shaft D2. (Shownin section Fig. 19.) The use of the stitch-guide D' is to measure and form the successively-interlocking loops of the stitch, as will be hereinafter more fullyexplained.

The stitch-guide D' is a sharp pointed steel wire Aof about the same size as'the needle C',

perforated with a thread-eye at d, and iscurved aroun'd for about a half a circle (more or less) on the same` radius as that ofthe needleC', and when fixed to its driving-head it .stands in a plane parallel with that occupied by the needle C' and about one-eighth or onequarterof an inch (more or less) distant therefrom, as may be required to form the length of the stitch-loop desired, and this distance ot' the loop-former D' from the needle C' may be regulatedat will to suit different work by sliding the shaft D2 endwise in its inclosing-shaft C2 and securing it in the proper position by one or more adjustable collars, D2, on the vsaidv shaft D2; and for this purpose the rocking arm or lever D3 may be used as a retaining-washerV forward| and setA adjustablyV to kthe said shaft D2 Vby means of .the set-screw d3. The shaft D2, with its attachments, may also be adjusted to rotate.

more or less, as may be desired, by moving the wrist-pin d, that connects the connecting-bar D4 with the crank arm or lever D3, up or down in the slot d5 in the said arm D3,thereby lengthening or shortening the stroke of the saidconnecting crank-pin d4 and limiting the movement of the shaft D2 as desired.

The tension-arm G, that draws the stitches tight in the `seam sewed, is another principal feature of this machine, and its movements are as indicated by the full and dotted lines in4 Fig. 13, the two positions indicated being the `limits of its movements as it vibrates on its center of motion, which is the a-xis of the shaft G', to which it is attached and by which it is operated. The shaft G', like all other operative parts of the machine, has its bearings in the frame A or in some suitable attachment thereto, and it, like the shaft E', hereinbefore described, has, in addition to arocking movement, a sliding movement longitudinally, the rocking movement being communicated to it by the cam M, cam-armG2, and the retainingspring G3, and the longitudinal movement by the cam-wheel H3, with its cam groove or face h3, and the levers GL and G5, Fig. 13, `which are xed respectively to the upper and lower ends of the rocking post G, thelatter being mounted on and rotated around afixed vertical axle, g, which is also fixed to the frame A, a lateral arm, a, being used as an intermediate support IOO and secured firmly to the frame A, so as to v allow the base of the rocking post GG to rest on top of the said supporting-arm c. As both the cams H3 and M are fixed to and driven by the shaft I, from which all the other operative parts of the machine are driven, it follows that the shaft G' and arm G, moved by these said4 cams, will move arbitrarily and in combination with the parts 131,0', D', E, and F, already described. The spring G3 holds the rock-shaft G habitually so as to throw the arm G down into the position shown by the full lines in Fig. 13, in which position thelower part of the said arm G rests against the stop a', which is fixed to and projects from the frame A, as shown in Fig. 13. of the said arm G, and the spring G3, that moves it into and holds itin that position, is shown in Fig. 14.

The cam IVI, attached to the drivin g-shaft I, is slightly more than a quadrant of a circle, terminating in two abrupt lines, m and m', at its respective ends, the said en d lines,m and m',

forming the cam M,'being nearly radial from.

shown by full lines in Fig. 13 to the position.

shown by'dotted lines in the same figure, and

This limits the downward movement IIO rzo

6o l the barb c* the lever or arm G is moved latervthis sudden and forcible throwing up of the arm Gdraws the stitch or thread forming the stitch uptightl y into the material being sewed, as will be presently more fully explained. From the moment the arm G2 first attains the full limit of its stroke, by reason ofthe extreme outer end of it reaching the curved periphery of the cam M as the said cam revolves, the said arm G2 will be heid stationary for a moment, aswell as the connected shaft G' and the arm G, by reason of `the endof the said arm G2 being held stationary on and by the curved periphery ofthecamM until the abrupt terminal end m of` the cam comes roundland allows the arm G2 to be suddenly drawn back to its normal position by the spring G2. At this sudden, almost instantaneous, action of the spring G2 the arm G is drawn down to its normal position of rest upon the projecting pin or stop a', and there remains, ready for the next stroke forward, and so on, the strokes or vibrations ofthe arm G being repeated and continued, forming or tightening a stitch at each revolution of the machine. The reciproeating movement ofthe arm Gand its actuating-shaft G is for the purpose of carrying Y the thread forming the stitch into the barb of the needle, as will be presently explained. The shaft G has a slot, g', cut circumt'erentially in it, as shown in Fig. 11, and this slot is occupied by the forked end g2 of the arm or lever G5,which said arm projeetshorizontally from the lower end of the vertical rocking post; G6, and the said arm G5 is moved backward and forward as required, the said post being rocked in the desired manner by the horizontal arm or lever G4, the free en d of the last-named arm or lever being engaged in and moved by the groove orcam surface ha of the cam El?, the whole operatin g in combination with each other and with theshaftl, from which they are driven, so as to produce the desired reciprocating movement of the arm G. The outer end of the arm G is curved downwardly,as shown in Fig. 2,0, and

e p movement and the needle G is rotated so that its barbed end has passed through the material being sewed, the further rotation of t the needle C to the end of its stroke will carry the barbedend of it into the notch g2, which will Athen overlap the needle-point and allow the thread s to drop intothe barb c4. 4Just at the moment that the threads thusoverlaps ally rearward, and thereby the thread s is held in "the barb c", so that it must be certainly drawn backby the next` semi-rotation of the needle C and carried along with it into and through the substance of the material being Sewed.

`shown `in Fig. 21.

Asmall vibrating arm, 0, two or three inches in length, (more or less,) is pivoted tothe side of thearm G toward its outer end by the pivot-piu o, and when the arm G is in its lower position, as shown by the full lines of Fig. 13, the arm O will stand in nearly a vertical position, as is also shown by the full lines in Fig.

` 13, and in this position it will be held by the stop o in the side ot' the arm G, against which it strikes, and the tension-spring O attached by one of its ends to the top end of the'said arm O, and by its other end to the ring 02, xwed to thehub of the arm G on the top ofthe shaft G. `This arrangement of the spring 0' will draw the vibrating arm O into thc position shown by the full lines in Fig. 13, yet permit it Ato assume the position shown by the dotted lines in the same ligure when it or its attached arm P strikes the stop and guide A2 in the upward movement of the arm G, (shown also in w Fig. 13,) the said stop and guide piece A2 being` fixed securely to some part of the frame Afor this purpose. The stop or guide A2 has a projecting horizontal arm, a, from the inner side of which projects a short lug, a", as shown in detail, Fig. 25.

The small arm P, attached to the rear side `of the vibrating arm O, is constructed of a bent wire oneeghth of an inch (more or less) in diameter and curved over to the rearward t of the said arm 0, from which it projects two or three inches (more or less) substantially in the form shown in Fig. 13, so as to form an attachment for the small coiled spring p, which connects the rearmost projectioinp, of the ariu IOO P with the outer end of the vibrating button i P', which is secured on the lower end of and moves with the rod P2, as'shown in Fig. 2l.

'lo the outer end of the rocking shaft Gf, and outside of the arm G, ismovably aty tached a small radial arm, R, as shown in Fig. 13, and in detail at Fig. 22, having an alignlar projection, r, attached to or formed on the lextreme outer end of this arm, which hasa central longitudinal slot, r', for the passage of the thread to the needle G, as hereinafter ekplaiued. As the shalt G rocks backwarthso as to let the arm G fall down to its lowest position-i. e., that shown by the full lilies of Fig. 13--the projecting arm R will fall with it as far astheprojectinglng a4 ofthe arm a3, on which it will catch and stop for a moment, while the arm Gproceeds on in its downward movement.

This stop of the arm R on the lug' d* will only `be for a moment, forjust at that instantthe A.inward longitudinal movement of the shaft G will commence, and by it the arm 1t will be releasedfroxn its hold on the stop or lug a",

IOS

but the said spring will allow the projecting or free end of the said piece P' to be moved back across the thread s every time the arms G O areraised up by reason of the 'projecting cndp' of the button coming in lcontact; with the sewing-thread s, while the said thread is drawn tightly between thetwork in thejaiws B B andthe slotted end of t-be lever G. As the threads becomes slaclrened by the descent ofthe tension-arm G the springs O' and 'p cofoperate to draw the arm O and button P'jnto attachments, and, thus extended across the opening g3, the thread s will catch on the barb of the needle C' on its entering the said notch g3, and then as the needle C' rocks backwardV it will carry a loop ofthe thread s along with it into the material being sewed, and the arm of the button P' will be drawn forward far enough by the tightening ot' the thread s to allow the thread to slip off the end of the said arm, and in this manner the operation of the machine will be continued, thebuttou P' holding the thread on the lips g4 and g5 at every stroke ofthe arm G,so as to insure the thread catching in the barb of the needle C'.

The ratchet T', hereinafter described, will at each rotation ofthe machiuefeed out a sufticient quantity of thefthread s to form one stitch or loop; and in order to prevent the thread so paid outforming too large a loop on the barb c, or the barb catching other than in the center of the loop, and consequently being run back tothe proper length over the said barb c4, thereby abrading the thread, the swinging arm R is employed to measure and divide the thread so thateach individual loop of the thread s will be of equal and uniform length, and the center of each loop be caught squarely on the barb c4. This arm R is constructed as above described, and as shown in Figs. 13 and 22. The attachment of this arm to the shaft G' is by means ot' a frictional band, R', which surrounds the end ot' the said shaft, land is moved therewith simply by friction. Thus the arm R- will move with the shaft G' when the arm G commences to move downwardly; but it will. stop in its downward movement a moment when the arm R strikes the stop a4 and allow the shaft to continue its partial rotation, thus moving on the said shaft as well as with it. While the arm lt is held onthe stop ai* it will draw back the slack ot' the thread s, passing through its slotted end r r', and thereby divide the thread, or rather the loop formed on it, so that the loop will be of the proper length, and the center of the loop will be caught on the barb c4 as desired.

The two vprincipal threads with which the seams ofy thisniacbine are sewed are carried on the two spools S and S', the first of which is` shownin Figs. 11 and 13 and thelatter in Fig. 8.

The auxiliary thread is carried on the'spool S2, which is also shown in Figs. 11 and 13. All

of these spools are suitably pivoted on the ma-A chine, so that the threads may readily unwind therefrom. The thread s from the spool S is Wound around the feeding-drum T, which is moved by the ratchet T', the pawl t, and the lever T2, so-as to feed out a certain required amountof thread at each revolution of the machine. on an axle, t', which is mounted on the frame A. The actuatinglever T2 is mounted' on the axle or pivot-pin t', which forms the fulcrum for the said lever. `The lever T2 is thrown forward on its operating-cani by means ofthe spring t2, which is fastened by one of its ends to some stationary part and arranged to allow its free end to press forward againstthe lever T2, as shown in Fig. 13. The lever T2 will be moved forward once at each revolution ot' the machine by means ot' a special cam or by the pin h4, projecting from theside of thecam-wheel H. A pawl, t, pivoted or fulcrumed tothe said lever t2, has a spring, 14, which habitually presses it into or against the teeth ofthe ratchet-wheel T', and as the lever 'l2 is moved forward by* the cam-pin h4 thev ratchet-wheel and its at tached spool or t'eedingdrum T will be turned around far enough to feed the thread s (which passes from the spool S to the vibrating arm G) out enough to form one stitch: A suitable retaining pawl or dog (not shown) may also be fitted against'the wheel T' to hold it against'a rearward movement while the pawl t is being moved back for a new hold. The thread s will pass from its spool S once or twice or more around the feeding-drum T, and thence through the slot r' in the outer end ofthe feeding-arm R, and thence down through the apertureg6 in the outer end of the arm G, from which it will pass to the needle C', the book or barb of which needle will catch this thread and draw it through the work at each backward rotation of the said needle.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the needles c', c2, and F, the stitch guide or catcher D', lifter E, and the tension-arm G co-operate as follows: The upper thread, s, having been measured, as described, is held across the notch in the arm G by the pivoted button P' and `brought down near to the needle c' c2, during which time the end c' ofthe needle has been forced through the work and retracted and the barbed end c2 of the said needle has been passed through the said hole, and as it projects through the work it catches the threadv s, which is waiting tor it, stretched across the notch g3. The thread so caught is then at once pulled some distance through the work, and, as soon as the barbed needle reaches the upward limit of its stroke, the needle F passes horizontally through lthe suspended loop, and, when far enough through, the catcher D' turns down into the notch f5 and catches the thread s'.- The needle F then recedes and leaves a horizontal loop on the catcher D', the said loop extending through the vertical loop ofthe ten- The drum Tand ratchet T'are mounted IOO IIO

IIS

sion or upper thread, s, still suspended on the barbed needle c2. The lifter E now tips the vertical loop `ott' the barbed needle andthe tension-arm draws it back, taking with it the horizontal loop, which is thereby doubled and drawn into and nearly.` through the work, it having been released by an upward movement of the catcher D' at the moment the tension` was sufiicient to prevent disarrangement of the horizontal loops When it is desired to use `a'thrd thread the auxiliary-thread s2 is passed through the eye in the endV of the catcher D', and it is thereby carried through the notch f5 and into the loop of thread s from the horizontally-moving needle as each stitch is formed, and thus becomesinterwoven with the said thread s', and by the action of thethreadsand tension-arm is drawn into the work with the other threads, the movement of the feeding-jawsand` the pull of the tension serving to feed the auxiliary thread through the eye of catcher D' as fast as required.

Having described our invention, we claim; `1. The feeding-jawarms r levers B' B2, hinged and fulcrumed to the sliding sleeve B3,

'in combination with the actuating-cams H and H' and the tension-spring B5, whereby the said jaws are released from or press upon the work, substantially as described.

`2. The cams Hand H', ratchet h., and pawl li', in combination witht-hejaw-arms B' and B2 andthe tension-spring B to allow thejaws B to` be moved to or from each other automatically by the operations ot the machine and also by theoperatorindependently of the working ofthe machine, as and for the purpose set forth. i t

3. In combination with the movablejaws B B2, the vibrating lever B4, with its attached sliding sleeve B2, and theactuating-cam H3, adapted to communicate the required reciprocating feed movemcntto the said jaws, substantially as specified.

4. The combination of the holding and feedingjaws B, thejaw-lever B', the sliding block bBQthe sheave b', and adjusting-screw b, so as to adj ust the distance between said holding' and feedingjaws B, as described.

f5. The adjustable fulcrurn-pin 117, witlrits adjusting-screws bw, in combination with the vibratin g lever B4, sliding collar B, and jaws B,

i for the purpose of regulating the length of the stitch or feed movement.

6. The earn-'wheels H, H', and H3, lever B, sleeve B2, and jaw arms or levers B' B2, combined together so as to produce the required holding and feeding movements of the jaws B, as described and set forth. i i

7. The lifter-hook E and its operating-shaft E', in combination with the operating-leversE2 and E2 and the actuating cam K, having piti 7c and projection la', substantially as described.

8. The horizontally -moving needle F, provided with a guard-spring, f6, thread-aperture i 55 f4, and transverse slot f5, substantially as described. i t

9. The needle F, with its sliding bar or shaft curved needle G', carrying their respective threads s and s', and the loop-catcher or stitchguide D', as described and-set forth.

1l. The curved needle C', in combination with the rocking head C, the adjusting-plate c, and

the perforated stiftening-gnides and stops cifre,

substantially as shown anddescribed.

12. The rocking needle head C, the hollow `rocking shaft G2, and its pinion G4, in combination with the vibrating arm N',"driving-Whe`el I', and the driving-shaft I, substantially as described.

13. The curved needle C', the horizontallymoving needle F, the lifter E, and the stitchmeasurer D', combined together so as to form a double-looped stitch of the threads s ands', as described. i

14. rlhe loop-catcher or stitch-guide D' and operating mechanism, in combination with the needle F, the shaft F', springf', operating-lever F2, and adapted to fall into and through the slot f4 of the said needle at the extreme point of the forward movement ofthe said needle F, thereby catching the thread s' and holding it in a loop of the desired length, substantially as described.

15. The 'curved stitch-guide D', with its rocking shaft D2, in combination with its operating-levers D3 and D5, with their connecting-link D4 and actuating-cam L, as and for the purposeiset forth.

16. The lever Dand connecting-rod D, adjustably combined together by means of the sliding pin d4 and slot d5, so as'to regulate the movement of the attached loop-'guide and catcher D', as described and set forth.

v17. The tension-arm G, combined with the rock-shaft G', operating-lever G2, spring G3, and actuating-cam M, adapted to impart a ra dial vibratory movement to the said tensionarm G, as shown and described.

18. The tension-arm G and its roch-shaft G', in combination with the `reciprocating'mechanism G3 G4 GG and the actuating-cam H2, so as to produce `a reciprocating forward-andbackward movement of the said arm G` for carrying the thread s into the barb ot' the needle C', as described and set forth.

IOO

izo

19. The tensionarm G, having a combined radial or pendulons movement and a reciprocatin g or forward-and-backward movement, substantially as describedand set forth.

20. The tension-arm G, provided with a reentering notch, g3, formed in its outer or swing'- ing end, and the overhanging lip g, in combi-- nation with the curved needle U', provided with barb c4, adapted to enter the saidnotch`V g3 and engage the thread s, as described and set forth.

21. The pivoted vibrating arm O, in combination with the tension-arm Gand the tensionspring O', adapted to`hold the arm 0 against vA2,as shown and described.

22. In combination with the lever 0, the projecting arm P, spring p, and the vibrating button P', as described and set forth.

23. The vibrating button P', in combination with the tension-arm G, arranged to hold the thread s tightly across the notch g3 of the said arm Gfor the proper engagement of the thread s with the barb c4 of the needle C', as described and set forth.

24. The vibrating button P', pivoted on the lower end ofthe arm O, combined with and held in position by the coiled spring'p, attached to one of its ends and also to the springholder P, as described and shown.

25. The arm R, in combination With the operating-shaft G', and the arm G, and adapted to move with and on the said shaft G', as described.

26. The arm R, provided with a projecting and slotted elbow, r, at its outer end for the passage of the thread s, as described and set forth.

27. The vibrating arm R, its actuating-shai'tA Massa G', and the stop A2, combined together, substantially as described, so as to move and stop the said arm Rin the manner required for the purposes of its ofce.

` 2S. The tension-arm G, the radial measur- 3o ing'arm lt, the vibrating lever or arm O, with its button P', and the curved needle C', combined together, substantially as described, so

as to measure out a portion of the thread s sufficient to form a single stitch at each revolu- 35 tion of the machine, and then hook that portion so measured onto the barb of the needle C', which will draw the loop or stitch into the work.

29. The adjustable stop and guide A2 a, 4o pivoted to the frame A,in combination with the thread-measuring arm It, tension-arm G, and operating-shaft G', substantially as shown and described..

CHRISTIAN WUTERIGH. GEORGE V. SHEFFIELD.

Witnesses:

J. B. THURsToN, PHILrP E. RAQU. 

